How to Sew an Invisible Zip - beginner's guide

Aug 8, 20242 min read

An ivisible zip sewing tutorial with equipment

In this post, I will be teaching you how to sew an invisible zip. A normal zip is always fine to use in clothing, but an invisible zip has a far neater look. They may seem daunting, but they are very simple, the zip itself does most of the work!

For this tutorial, I would advise you to practice with just two scrap rectangles of fabric, before you try it with an actual project.

You will also need an invisible zip, you can not do this with a regular zip. You can find these in most haberdashery shops, or online.

To go with your zip, you will need an invisible zip foot for your sewing machine. Once again these are easily found, but make sure it has the correct attachment for your machine.

How To Sew an Invisible Zip:

Place your pieces of fabric right sides together and sew down the edge using a 5/8" seam allowance, and your longest stitch length.

Iron your seam open.

Along the seam pin your zip right side facing down. Make sure the teeth on the zip align directly with your stitches.

Make a mark on your zip, 1/2" from the bottom.
Using a needle and thread, loosely baste your zip to the fabric, stopping at that 1/2" marke at the bottom. Make sure you only sew it to the edge, do not push your needle through both pieces of fabric. You should not be able to see the stitches from the front.

Using a stitch ripper, carefully undo the stitching you created at the beginning, but stop 1/2 " from the bottom.

Pull your zip open. Carefully tuck the pull tab on your zip underneath the unripped fabric at the bottom.

On one side, fold your zip over as shown in the photo below.

Note: You will notice on your invisible zip foot for your machine that there are two small ridges. This is to place your teeth on top of. So if you are sewing the right side of your zip, place the teeth under the right side ridge. And visa versa.